(written
for eLuna Website)
Restaurant
review:
Caffit,
Emek Refaim Street, German Colony, Jerusalem.
In
the Valley of the Ghosts, half a block from the Nazi cemetery, is
the "in" place to be. That's Jerusalem for you.
The three secrets to success are said to be "location,
location, location," and in the capital, that means Emek Refaim
Street. Its quirky history, and spooky name, hark from the Scriptures;
the Templar cemetery came later. (The German sect, outspokenly pro-Nazi
during World War II, was deported en masse, though the dead were
allowed to stay.)
Caffit, the innest of the in places here in German Colony,
is a tremendous success, and not just because of its plum location.
Listen in on the conversations around the little wooden tables,
and you get an idea ...
"Can you believe the service here?..."
"I'll have the Oreganato..."
"These people really know how to run a joint..."
"Oreganato for all of us, please..."
"Oh, man, the food here ..."
"The guy in the blue shirt over there, he's an actor;
the old lady in the corner is an artist; that noisy table, a bunch
of journalists; wow, she must be a model ..."
"Tell me, what's this Orga-, Oragen-, what's this salad
here?"
The service really is terrific: no matter how jam-packed
the place is, there's always an eager, friendly young waiter at
your beck, and they really seem to love working there. Each of them
serves only four or five small tables, which tells you something.
So does this: the four owners are also eager, friendly and
young (in their mid-30s and early 40s). Caffit is not a cold business
venture for them: they founded it, some 15 years ago. And they didn't
get greedy with their success by branching out: all their energy
and attention is funneled into this one place.
I lived around the corner when they first opened, when there
was little else in "The Village" but a burger joint. Now
there are dozens of fine eateries, but Caffit is still the popular
favorite -- and THAT tells you something too.
Well, what else is there to say?
Oh yeah.
The food.
Look, don't just walk in, sit down, snap your fingers, and
order the Oreganato. Try something else. (I want to be sure that
when I get there, they don't run out.) The sweet-potato soup (NIS
26) is a bowl of yummy contradictions: sweet and tart, creamy and
chunky. Next time, though, I really want to try the cream of broccoli.
Or the onion soup. (Y'see why patrons keep coming back?) If you
like soup with bread, you can ask for soup IN bread: they hollow
out a crunchy loaf and that's your bowl.
The antipasti (NIS 48) is antihunger: you get an array of
perhaps a dozen delicacies that are colorful, creative, and can
I use the word "yummy" again? Judy, my stunning blonde
date, who is yummy too, insisted on half of everything, and the
hell with her diet. So I can tell you only half-heartedly that the
best of the meza was deep-fried mushrooms stuffed with salmon, roquefort
and cream cheese, and a close second, splendid mango chunks in (I
think) a cilantro vinaigrette. There were portions of guacamole,
grilled veggies, ravioli with ricotta and parmesan filling in tomato
and cream sauce, tehina, tomatoey-onion-and-nuts, and a hot red
thing too brutal for my blushingly tender palate.
With all this, I sipped a perspicacious but not overly presumptuous
dry red Australian vino, which I can wholeheartedly (I didn't have
to share it) recommend.
We tore into foccacia -- not the traditional rosemary-and-garlic
(NIS 24), but a novelty for me, with mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes
and black olives (NIS 34).
Caffit gets its pasta homemade from an Italian family in
Tel Aviv, and adds zing: the pasta dishes (NIS 38-46) include fettucini
with stir-fried zucchini in olive oil and oregano, and (next time,
next time) spaghetti in pesto sauce.
It all sounds so Italiano, but Idit, the manager, refused
to limit Caffit's menu as "Italian." Indeed, the chef
studied there, but he's a local talent, so it's a bit of both, but
mostly, originally his.
You might want to get up and take a little stroll down Emek
Refaim to make room for dessert (go left, and you can peek in at
the cemetery through a hole in the iron door), which is worth every
calorie: butterscotch cake with nuts and whipped cream, cheese cake,
bittersweet chocolate and orange, a divine two-tone Belgian chocolate
concoction, hot chocolate cake, apple pie, and a pecan-plus-plus
pie. Next time. I like my espresso tongue-thwackingly bitter, just
like they make it.
I wasn't going to mention the salads, because there isn't
much room left here on the Internet, but I think I have to. The
salads (NIS 38-45) -- Greek, tuna, Nicoise, mozzarella, Roquefort,
goat cheese -- are much better than they sound, and the oreganato...
Last time I went to Caffit, and this time, and, I'm sure,
next time, I couldn't resist. Didn't even have to look at the menu.
"Gimme the usual," I commanded.
The recipe -- tomatoes, Bulgarian cheese, black olives, onion,
stir-fried zucchini, pine nuts, pistacchio, walnuts, sunflower seeds,
basil, mint, olive oil -- is a secret. They made me promise not
to give it away (which is why I didn't mention the oregano).